This story originally appeared in i-D’s Out Of The Blue issue, no. 366, Winter 2021. Order your copy here.
It was back in 2017, in what feels now like ancient times, that Peter Do (it’s pronounced ‘dough’) first floated the idea of starting a brand to a small group of friends he’d met on the internet, via Tumblr and Instagram. An, Jessica, Vincent, Lydia and Peter – the five founders of the NYC- based brand – came together IRL to discuss details of catwalk imagery and their day jobs in fashion (as well as their frustrations with them), over glasses of wine and late-night dinners. What would their fashion house look like? Lunch would be eaten together, for a start. And clothes – really well-made, interesting-to-look-at, easy-to-wear clothes – would be the star of the show.
Precious wears coat PETER DO SS22. T-shirt and briefs SUNSPEL. Choker (worn throughout) stylist’s studio. Boots (worn throughout) LEWIS LEATHERS
It sounds like a no-brainer, and it was. Four years later Peter Do has captured the attention of the fashion industry, from social media influencers to blue-chip luxury retailers. He’s become one of the most feted and confident voices in the fashion landscape, even though the label remarkably only just staged its first show, aptly titled Home. The pandemic is to blame for that, of course, but the delay has been a blessing in disguise. There’s nothing quite like the anticipation of a fashion week debut, especially when we know that it’s going to be really, really good.
Shirt PETER DO SS22
That sense of occasion wasn’t lost on Peter, who so far had managed to sidestep fashion’s cult personality, and let his work speak for itself. Women love his clothes, but the fashion industry loves a neatly-packaged storyline in a show. “There was a lot of things I wanted to say, but I couldn’t get out of my head,” Peter explains a few weeks later, once the adrenaline rush of his first catwalk outing had simmered. “I think that’s what we wanted the Peter Do collection to be. I wanted to reduce it to the very essence of who we are, almost like how you might reduce a broth down.”
Coat and trousers PETER DO SS22.
As Peter Do explained in a handwritten note, placed on every seat of his show, the show was like traditional Vietnamese pho. The ingredients are relatively few – his late father’s pho included beef, pork bones, spices, dry shrimp, and rock sugar. Although simple, it takes “years of trial and error”, the most crucial ingredient of all being a hefty dollop of patience and love. Any good pho, Peter explains, is born from hours of reducing and …….